Kriss’s oxymoronic “upscale diner” features the usual suspects, such as chicken wings, fries, and burgers, but everything is finessed and fancified. Confit chicken wings are dotted with XO dashi jus; beet salad is invigorated with fresh burrata; and golden spuds are saddled up with bloody mary aioli.At this unassuming Dundas West joint, you c